Blanz( Bill Lanzilotta ) from S10forum.com Did an excellent write up on how to change the Steering Linkage on an S-10.  Thanks Bill.  

This "how-to" and values listed are vehicle specific and are to be used for illustration purposes only.

I just finished replacing the entire steering linkage on my 2WD S-10 with parts from Power Performance Motorsports.
As most members already know, they sell an entire kit of "extreme-duty" parts, and the purchase of the kit made it very easy to accumulate all that is needed.
As I said before, I ordered the entire kit found here: http://powerperformancemotorsports.c...productId=1774

Kit shown below...


Also, I would highly recommend trashing the cheap foam gasket seals that come with the Center Link.
Order from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) V-Cup Seals (pack of 5), part number 9691K53.

Difference is obvious below...


Also, before you begin, go down to your local auto parts store and purchase a Tie-Rod removal tool.
Very cheap and very necessary. Shown below is the one that worked well for me.


Time to begin the removal of the old crap.

1. Drive vehicle up onto a good set of ramps, keep the wheel dead straight and lock it in position and remove the key.
2. Remove the (2) Idler arm to frame nuts from the bolts.
3. Remove all the cotter pins from the joints
4. Remove the nuts from the outer Tie Rods, and from the Pitman arm.
5. Install your Tie-Rod removal tool over each outer Tie-Rod joint and Pitman Arm joint and tighten the screw until each shaft pops out of its respective socket.
6. Remove the steering linkage as an assembly.
7. Install the (2) V-cup seals onto the Center Link ends as shown below
8. 
9. Assemble two sets of Tie-Rod assemblies; Outer, Inner, Sleeve and two clamps. Do not tighten clamps at this time. Try and have an equal amount of threads from each Tie-rod in the sleeve.
10. Using your old linkage as a reference, install the inner Tie-Rods (these are the ones that have the grease fitting holes drilled into the side of the casting) to the holes in the Center Link and tighten the nuts to 35 lb./ft. Align holes in shaft to the slots in the nuts and install cotter pins.
11. Install the Idler Arm to the Frame and tighten the nuts onto the mounting bolts to 79 lb./ft.
12. Now install the Center Link to the Pitman arm and Idler Arm. Tighten the Pitman Arm nut to 36 lb./ft. and the Idler Arm nut to 35 lb./ft. Rotate the nuts to line up the cotter pin holes and install pins in both locations.
13. Working one Tie-Rod at a time, swing up one outer Tie-Rod and rotate the adjusting sleeve to either lengthen or shorten the Tie-Rod assembly so that the outer Tie-rod shaft will slip into the steering knuckle hole.This takes a little playing with. Once you can hand tighten the Tie-Rod nut to snug up the shaft in the hole, you should be able to fine tune the length of the assembly by slowly turning the adjuster sleeve to feel the perfect center. Torque the Tie-Rod to steering knuckle nut to 39 lb./ft. and install cotter pin. Play with the adjuster sleeve again to find that perfect center where there is the least amount of force to rotate it. That's basically setting the Tie-Rod assembly to the steering system without putting any side to side preload on the wheel, meaning the tire will be where it was before you removed the old linkage (no change in Toe in/out). Tighten the two adjuster sleeve clamps to about 10 lb./ft.
14. Repeat for the other side.
15. Shoot some fresh chassis grease into all the fittings. While your under there, clean that nasty undercarriage and spray some flat black paint on those rusty-ass parts. Neatness counts!!!
16. Now roll 'er off the ramps and take her for a spin. If you were real careful when setting the Tie-Rods, there should be no reason for a wheel alignment. The toe in/out should have remained the same.

Here's some shots of the finished installation with torque values assigned to the components.

-Passenger side


-Drivers side